Leg Two : Cape Wrath Trail - 2011 [Cluanie to Strathcarron]

After an absence of 14years, it was time to revisit the Trail. In 2011, I was working a shift pattern which afforded 3-4day downtime. This would be a perfect opportunity to complete another leg of the trail. Additionally, in June 2011, I had compleated the Munros so no longer was chasing this list. 

Friday 29th July 2011
Distance :  11km


After a brief kip following a overnight shift, I drove north stopping at Tisos in Perth for some supplies of food and gas. The weather was gloriously warm, with a dry forecast ahead. I arrived at the Cluanie Inn around 5ish and left my car registration details with the hotel staff. 

I filled up my water bottle at the tap to the side of the bunkhouse and set off initially along the road east, but soon after a kilometre onto a land rover track into the An Caorann Mor. The track petered out after three of four kilometres and was replaced by a very faint path through the grass and ferns. I listened to Radio Scotland in my ears; Bryan Burnett was getting it on. 

I listened to Radio Scotland as I walked through An Caorann Mor

 On the map, it suggested the path would head for a bridge near Allt Beithe hostel, but this led me away from my preferred route. I could see the River Affric was very low, infact from a distance I could see some potential boulders for hopping across. Without further ado, I hopped the river and turned west heading up Gleann Gniomhaidh until I found a suitable camp spot. 

My campsite at the end of Gleann Gniomhaidh

   

Saturday 30th July 2011
Distance : 22km

Settled warm weather means midges. When I woke, I could hear them like light rain on the flysheet. Breaking camp was not a pleasurable experience and even with a midgenet, socks over trousers, gloves over sleeves, I got a vicious set of bites. Once the tent was down, I set off immediately west hoping to get to some higher ground and a breeze. There was no way I could boil water in this cloud of midges. 

I found myself at the head of the glen after a swift four kilometres and the air was moving enough to get rid of most of the midge hell. I boiled my water and breakfasted on porridge. The low glen cloud was burning off, as the sun grew in strength and it was looking like another cracking day. 

I turned north again and passed Loch a Bhealaich, with the Bealach an Sgairne behind. I had last been there in 2008 when I climbed Beinn Fhada up its steep western ridge over Sgurr a Choire Ghairbh. There was a very tricky bit of down scrambling on there, not somewhere I'd like to be in wet or wild weather. 

Bealach an Sgairne

 Continuing north over rougher pathless ground, I listened to music on my iPod into Gleann Gaorsaic. When originally planning this leg of the walk, I had thought about heading over Sgurr Gaorsaic on this day, but couldn't fit it in to the schedule. Even with hindsight I think it would've been a bit much. Eventually the high ground of the glen started to descend and I could see my next objective ahead. 

Glen Elchaig, Carnach and Faochaig

I was going to lose considerable altitude dropping down to the lodge at Carnach, but there was no other choice. Thankfully the path was good, and the weather fine. Before I reached the bridge over the River Elchaig, I stopped to have some lunch of cheese and oatcakes. The air was hot and I applied some sun cream, whilst drinking my fill from the Allt Coire Easaich.

Highland Cattle grazing in Glen Elchaig

I had to pass through the cattle herd which was also gathered around the lodge before joining the excellent stalker's path which zig-zagged its way steeply out of the glen up the side of the Allt Domhainn. It weaved a way through birch woods, and in some places the path had been washed away by landslides. Heading due north now, I was on my way to the first Corbett of my Cape Wrath Trail route - Faochaig. 

On the summit I relaxed for some time, eating and sending text messages since I'd be out of mobile reception for about the next 24hours. From the cairn I headed east to drop steeply down to the excellent track in the glen. There was a tent pitched near the head of the pass but no sign of an owner. I followed the track north again as it descended gradually to my accommodation for the night at Maol Bhuidhe. 

The bothy was deserted, and I realised I would be alone. I washed in the river whilst being eaten by midges before cooking dinner and retiring for the night in the lower room.

 

Sunday 31st July
Distance : 16km
 

The weather had turned cooler and there was a stronger wind. Rain looked likely. Ahead lay Ben Dronaig, but between the bothy and the hill was another Allt. But this one came with a reputation for being uncrossable. Everything I read in the bothy visitors' book suggested it would be difficult, but I hoped with the recent dry spell it might be low enough to cross. At GR053364 I found an old lump of concrete in the main flow which allowed a dry hop across. What was all the fuss about? 

Pathless deep heather was followed onto Ben Dronaig with the wind rising at every step. The views were still good though with the peaks of Torridon in the north beckoning. 

  The summit trig point had a large turd on it, presumably from a bird of prey or some such. It had a fruity diet though so am not sure of its origin. It was very windy now, I struggled to stand unsupported but managed to grab a selfie. 

Bidein a Choire Sheasgaich was dominating the northern view, sadly scarred by numerous estate vehicle tracks on its lower flanks. I followed the shoulder of Ben Dronaig west for a while before dropping north to the lodge of the same name. Approaching from this direction allowed me to observe any activity from the bothy or lodge; once again there was none. I realised I had seen not a soul since leaving Cluanie Inn two days before. I arrived at the well equipped bothy to eat some food and use the facilities. 

 

Ben Dronaig lodge bothy, well equipped.

It was time to move on , and I set off along the land-rover track west beside the raging Uisge Dubh. There were a couple of heavy plant machines beside the track, presumably used for the hillpath construction seen earlier. I left the track at 995386 and headed into the heather again to join the good path up to the Bealach Alltan Ruairidh. Although the path was not obvious from a distance, it was very dry and allowed me to make speedy progress to my final destination at Strathcarron. I was looking forward to my hotel now!

The following day, I caught the first train to Kyle of Lochalsh, and then the Citylink bus to Cluanie Inn and my car.