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| Day Two, emerging from the cloud above Strathfarrar |
In April 2015, we tried to do it again and drove all the way to the start line at Elphin in Assynt. However, the weather was against us and freezing temperatures combined with driving wind and snow made for an ominous feeling at registration. As we stood in the queue for the minibus to the start, we both looked at each other from under our already soaking hoods...and binned it :-(
2016 came round and we were determined to compete again. Thankfully the planners had chosen June for the event so at least (we hoped) there would be no snow! Our training went reasonably well, both completing the Marcothon in December 2015 provided a decent foundation of fitness on which to build. We had a good two days in the Ben Alder forest in May testing out gear and navigation. We managed to get over four Munros and a Corbett in reasonable time. Unfortunately Sally suffered from a respiratory issue for the weeks leading up to the HMM, and I stupidly over did it on a walk in the Blackmount on the 30th May (26km, 2600m ascent, 10hrs). By the time Saturday 4th June arrived, we were both operating at ~85% of capacity....
Gear
I had ditched my coldest gear (spare gloves/balaclava/down gilet) and had bought a very lightweight windproof jacket (Mammut Ultimate Jacket) to replace my Haglofs heavier fleece. We took the Vango Banshee tent again (for comfort) but I took my ridiculously light (and thin) Mountain Equipment sleeping bag with a silk liner. We both decided to take poles; there wasn't much of a decision to make. We can be the bumblies with poles. I opted to run in shorts, but packed tights for the overnight (and potential windy summits). Sally carried the food, I carried the tent and stove. We both carried midge nets!Day One
We drove into Cannich at 07:15 on the Saturday morning, directed to the church to park the car. The weather was heavily overcast, with no wind. Changing into our Fellraisers at the back of the car, the midges began to bite. After registration in the village hall, we boarded the 08:00 bus (one was due to leave every 30mins) and set off. Cannich is the access point for three major glens - Affric, Mullardoch and Farrar, but still we were unsure where we were going.
In April 2009 when I was trying to gather up my remaining Munros, I passed through Strathfarrar and spotted a huge white marquee tent set up on a flat area of grass halfway down the glen. There didn't seem to anyone around. Later research revealed it was the site of the 2009 HMM. With this knowledge, I guessed the HMM might be returning to the same location for its final fling.
The bus didn't turn left down Affric, nor right to head for Struy at Strathfarrar, instead it chose the middle road and headed up Mullardoch. Twenty-five minutes later we stopped just short of the dam for a brief walk up the tarmac to the start pens.
On the hillside to the north of the dam, we could see many teams already striding purposefully across the heather in all directions. The cloud base was at about 350m, only one hundred metres above. After a final kit check to fasten straps,buckles and laces, we dibbed in the Clear thingy before pacing to the start and the clock started.
I chose to plot only the first two CPs - and quickly realised we'd be heading for Strathfarrar to the same mid-camp spot as 2009. Happy days!!
The first CP was easy to find above the dam, but the next was going to be trickier. Logic told me to follow the ridgeline over the hill even if it meant ascending higher than necessary, but with very poor visibility due to the cloud, it would be an easier nav. And so it turned out, many other teams were doing the same and we pursued a pair of men all the way to 800m.
The sky brightened and suddenly we emerged from the cloud at 850m to observe a cloud inversion all the way to the Strathfarrar Munros to the north. But alas, within minutes we had descended into the cloud again to find CP#2 at a stream junction.
Our route to CP#3 was not great, and I think I hurried the nav for this leg so that we were dragged with the fall of the ground rather than heading the in the right compass direction. It was very difficult in the poor visibility. At about 400m we emerged below the cloud and could see a sparse forest below. That placed us on the map and we made 45° direction change to eventually reach the CP#3.
Down through the forest to CP#4 on a Knoll at 250m, now racing with two other teams stepping on groundfall branches and twigs. At the CP, Sally had to adjust her shoe and apply a Compeed.
Looking at the map for the next CP, we could see it was across the other side of the glen and the easiest route would be to follow the obvious tracks on the map. There was a more direct route, but it would be through more heather and tussocks - to be avoided!
Crossing the River Farrar was via a ford (thanks to Nick Brown for recording the moment!)
The sky brightened and suddenly we emerged from the cloud at 850m to observe a cloud inversion all the way to the Strathfarrar Munros to the north. But alas, within minutes we had descended into the cloud again to find CP#2 at a stream junction.
Our route to CP#3 was not great, and I think I hurried the nav for this leg so that we were dragged with the fall of the ground rather than heading the in the right compass direction. It was very difficult in the poor visibility. At about 400m we emerged below the cloud and could see a sparse forest below. That placed us on the map and we made 45° direction change to eventually reach the CP#3.
Down through the forest to CP#4 on a Knoll at 250m, now racing with two other teams stepping on groundfall branches and twigs. At the CP, Sally had to adjust her shoe and apply a Compeed.
Looking at the map for the next CP, we could see it was across the other side of the glen and the easiest route would be to follow the obvious tracks on the map. There was a more direct route, but it would be through more heather and tussocks - to be avoided!
Crossing the River Farrar was via a ford (thanks to Nick Brown for recording the moment!)
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| Crossing the River Farrar - cool feet! |
As we started the ascent of the north side of the glen, we were passed by two runners slogging their way up the hill. Very impressive. We grabbed a cup of water crossing the Allt Toll a Mhuic and then another 2km to CP#5. Time for some food and we stuffed some nuts & chocolate down our necks. Meanwhile two or three teams passed through the CP...I was champing at the bit so got on their tail as soon as we could.
We then climbed Gob a Chairn to the Munro top of Creag Ghorm a Bhealaich up a long easy angled grassy slope. Superb underfoot conditions, but the sun was beating down and without a breeze it was slightly sweaty. A mixed team in front of us were struggling; well, the male member was struggling and the female heroically took his pack and carried it up the hill on her front! What a woman!!
The view from the summit was stupendous, now that the cloud layer had burnt off, and I could see our next CP was going to require a ridge walk for a km or so.
We then climbed Gob a Chairn to the Munro top of Creag Ghorm a Bhealaich up a long easy angled grassy slope. Superb underfoot conditions, but the sun was beating down and without a breeze it was slightly sweaty. A mixed team in front of us were struggling; well, the male member was struggling and the female heroically took his pack and carried it up the hill on her front! What a woman!!
The view from the summit was stupendous, now that the cloud layer had burnt off, and I could see our next CP was going to require a ridge walk for a km or so.
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| The ridge east to Sgurr a Choire Ghlais |
At the bealach before the next climb, we stopped for more food and then contoured around the west side of Sgurr a Choire Ghlais. Dropping down the south ridge we managed a trot on the grass, but were passed by a fast running male team just as we were spotting a route to descend into Coire Mhuillidh where the next CP was located.
A drink and refuel at the busy CP; teams on our route, others appearing from the south. As with the HMM in 2014, there was a long section of contouring near the end of day one, and so it transpired. The terrain was not kind and I found it difficult finding a decent line. There were actually teams above us and below all following different contours, but generally heading in the same direction. The teams below us were making faster progress.
Eventually we reached the penultimate CP of the day and then quickly headed down to the Allt Choire Mhuillidh where there was a bridge marked. I could just see the teams that had overtaken us on the contouring scouting back and forth near the river. So we headed in their general direction. Soon enough I spotted a hydro dam in the defile below, but 20m further upstream in the trees (literally) was a wooden footbridge - happy days!!
On the far bank we joined a LR track and we trotted down the hill to the final CP two hundred metres short of the finish.
A drink and refuel at the busy CP; teams on our route, others appearing from the south. As with the HMM in 2014, there was a long section of contouring near the end of day one, and so it transpired. The terrain was not kind and I found it difficult finding a decent line. There were actually teams above us and below all following different contours, but generally heading in the same direction. The teams below us were making faster progress.
Eventually we reached the penultimate CP of the day and then quickly headed down to the Allt Choire Mhuillidh where there was a bridge marked. I could just see the teams that had overtaken us on the contouring scouting back and forth near the river. So we headed in their general direction. Soon enough I spotted a hydro dam in the defile below, but 20m further upstream in the trees (literally) was a wooden footbridge - happy days!!
On the far bank we joined a LR track and we trotted down the hill to the final CP two hundred metres short of the finish.
Overnight Camp
As expected, the camp was on the flat grassy expanse near the outflow of Loch a Mhuillidh. The marquee tent was twice the size as in 2014 with food & beer on tap. At the road bridge over the river, two signs marked upstream for drinking water, downstream for washing. Competitors in lycra stood and sat in the water washing salt and sweat from their bodies. As the sun descended, the wind rose, at least the midges were absent, but it was a bit parky. The ceilidh burst to life at about 8.30, but I was asleep by 9.30, drowsing to the hum of the generator interspersed by the whoops of the flingers.
We were awake at 5.45, packed by 6.15, in the marquee by 6.25, queuing for bacon butties, breakfasted by 6.50, in the MASSIVE queue for bogs at 7. One difference between 2014 and 2016 - there seemed to be fewer bogs, and with more competitors, made for some long queues.
Day Two
The start was located on One Tree Hill or Tom a Mhein on the map, a wonderful spot to start the day amongst the midges and heather.
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| One Tree Hill (day two start). Thanks to Simon Caldwell. |
Since we all started within 30mins of each other between 7am and 7.30am, there was a different feel to the day, with several trains developing and after two CPs it was clear who we were competing against. The climb out of the glen to the south was bloody awful. Loose and muddy, midgy, mild and thick clag. But at 500m as with day one, we emerged from the cloud into bright sunshine to CP#3.
Sgur na Diollaid lay between us and the next CP. Knowing it was a Corbett that I hadn't climbed forced my hand. Even if the optimum line was a lower level contour, I had to climb it.
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| Sgurr na Diollaid |
The peak itself is actually two rocky tops, the western one had a CP on it, not sure which class, but it wasn't ours! The rest of the route for day two was fairly straightforward, and with the train ahead of us, we just ensured we kept our place. At CP#4, there was a choice of routes to CP#5 - along and up, or up and along. Defying the train ahead, we chose up and along. It turned out to be the right choice as we reached CP#5 ahead of the train we'd been following, and ahead of team C11. Sadly our decision to eat some food resulted in the train overtaking us here and we were on catch up again.
The last three CPs were mostly contouring, not a lot of ascent and with the dry ground made for decent progress. The final descent off the hill was a delight - we picked up a good LR track at about 400m and trotted down it passing many teams still walking. At the road at 60m was the penultimate CP and then a 1km slog along the tarmac to the finish in a dusty car park outside the village hall. A bit different from the Glenfinnan railway viaduct in 2014!!
Overall we were pleased with our result, 15th in C. 12:04:53, and with our new found veteran age (combined 91!), we were 2nd placed Mixed Vet team in Class C! Almost certainly the fastest team with poles. Is there a category for that? I think we could maybe have skimmed 20mins off the time on day one, but day two we were at maximum (apart from the chosen Corbett diversion!) The weather had made the event special and apart from CP#3 on day one, the navigation had been straightforward.
Very sad that it is the final event for the HMM but glad we were involved in the last three. I would be gutted if I had only competed in 2016.
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